**Road's End Papillons- established in 2006
**We are advocates of raw-, fresh, "human-grade food" for our canine friends .
And:
we follow limited vaccination guidelines.
**Please note that Road's End available Papillons are
only to be seen by clicking on the AVAILABLE page, unless mentioned otherwise

Thursday, February 20, 2014

Natural Flea Treatments for your Papillon Dog, and other Pets

Some one posted an interesting comment on this blog, which I want to re-publish here and go into a couple of further details on it.

Rocksye has left a new comment on your post "Calcium Bentonite added to Food-Grade Diatomaceous...":
I want to say how thrilled I am to read your posts. I am a new Papillon owner (live in OK, where Papillons are not very common) so I have found your blog & articles very valuable. I am a long time animal owner, just new to Paps & I am very much into holistic/natural treatment/remedies for our ourselves as well as our animals, but I hadn't heard of DE. I have never felt comfortable about the Frontline & Advantage but hadn't found any other option. I am excited about trying DE, a bit skeptical, but seeing your info helps me have more faith. I don't know if you answer any questions on here but I see the time difference from your 1st article on how you swapped to DE & this article, so I am wondering if it is still giving you wonderful coverage. I have a 14 year old cat that has developed a flea allergy (I am thinking this Bentonite Clay might help her get rid of this allergy) so I have to try & keep ANY fleas from biting her & their saliva getting in her skin. So if this DE isn't as good as the conventional product, it could do more harm to her than good. One flea bite will give her a silver dollar size bare spot in her fur, from obsessive licking as well as the skin reaction. Thank you very much for sharing. And Thank You for posting your Papi's fun pics, they are so beautiful!! 




I have used DE now long enough to be able to say that I feel save by applying it to the hair coat to my dogs.
DE (Diatomaceous Earth) is a much safer product than all other chemical, commercial flea treatments.
You have to apply with care as not to let the dog (cat) inhale much of the the powder, and that it does not get into his eyes, nose,or mouth . I apply it mostly on my dogs backs a little, rub it into the fur, hair, and while I am doing so, I carry the dog and walk briskly forward, so the breeze will leave the dust behind.
I also rub DE  into the the areas where the pets reside; if you have carpet, sprinkle it onto the rugs, carpet, spread it with the broom, leave for a couple of days, and then vacuum it up.
And of course, if your pet gets rained on, or bathed, you have to do it again.
A little more labor (of Love) but it beats having to use harmful chemicals.
We had a bad flea outbreak here (Oregon, USA) in the heat of last summer, and this, we may all experience again this year.
Understandable it is, that we all are tempted to break down, and pull out the old Front Line, or Advantix. (all toxic chemicals). But if we are persistent, and give our pets a year- around care, not only when the fleas thrive, and brought into the house, we eventually will win control over flea invasions, and eliminate.
Fleas attack first the living creatures in poor condition.
If your dog, or cat has a healthy foundation, he, she will have a natural built-in "repellent".
Just like in nature, fleas go after the weaker living creatures, they are easier prey.
So, you start by feeding your pet-yes, your kitty is in this group, a natural , fresh diet.
You stay away from vaccinations, as much as possible , and if you have to have your pet vaccinated, seek a vet who carries mercury free vaccines.
 Best vets to visit are Holistic/Homeopathic veterinarians .
And do not use chemical cleaners so much in-, and around the house, and never use pesticides, or herbicides in your yard. All these will do major harm to your pet's immune system.
A weakened immune systems bring out dermatitis, allergies, and much more.

Back to DE: ( Use only food grade Diatomaceous Earth.)-No, it may not work always 100%, but there are other things you could do in combination:

  • Wash your pets bedding, and lounge areas frequently, including your own bed linen, if your pooch sleeps with you.
  • Bath your pet more often when fleas are on the march. Any regular good soap (shampoo) will kill fleas. Do not get any commercial "flea shampoo" with unnecessary chemicals in it. 
  • Simple as that: soap kills fleas. Dish soap works really good! You can add a few drops of Lavender oil, and, or other essential oils into the soap, which work as a repellent, so the fleas keep away for a while.
  • A flea comb soaked in soapy water works good on cats, and short haired dogs. 

I just learned myself from Dogs Naturally that the Essential Oil Wintergreen , mixed one teaspoon of wintergreen to one quart of hot water , used in a mist sprayer and applying to upholstered furniture, pillows, and all other places where flea eggs may hatch, works well. Spraying about 3 times/ year, will kill all flea eggs, not the flea itself. The odor goes away in just a couple of days, and you will have no fleas in no time! Do not use the oil directly on your pet!
The last thing I want to address here is the problem when a flea does bite, and your dog or cat is very allergic to the flea bite.
I also have a couple of Paps who are now older and flea allergic.
I use skin (tea) rinses on them, made out of either peppermint, lavender, chamomile, plantain, calendula. I use at least 2 different herbs together; all of them, with bacteria fighting properties,  are good choices.
I soak the affected area with the rinse (tea), and let drip-dry.
Which Hazel (Astringent) made with grain alcohol is also another choice of mine.



There is much information out there, on line, of all things I mentioned. Keep looking and learning. All our pets deserve the very best care, to keep them happy and healthy.